Remembering the tale of the "bright orange-red gloop" version of Kung Pao chicken she was served when she first came to England
Confusion
“I didn’t order this.”
“Yes you did,” said the waiter.
“I asked for Kung Pao chicken.”
“This is Kung pao chicken,” he replied, nudging forward a plate of bright orange-red gloop - some kind of battered, deep-fried meat swimming in sticky sauce, dotted with peanuts and a few spring onions.
I’d just arrived in England, fresh from Singapore’s vibrant food scene, and I was baffled. Kung Pao chicken wasn’t supposed to look like sweet and sour! I’d been expecting tender stir-fried chicken, glossy and golden, tossed with deep red dried chilies, crunchy peanuts, and bright spring onions.
“Next time you come,” the waiter said with a wink, “tell the chef: Chinese girl eating!” Ah… the joys of Anglicised Chinese food.
That was my first experience of culinary translation, where dishes cross borders and lose their identity. It also sparked a lifelong curiosity: how and why do flavours change when they travel? What gets lost, and what is reinvented? Thirty-six years later, I still think about that plate of food. Not with disappointment, but with wonder. Because it has stirred up a deeper hunger - for sharing authenticity, for storytelling and for home.
What is Kung Pao chicken
Also known as Gong Bao or Kung Po, it is a classic Chinese stir-fry dish that originated in the Sichuan province. Traditionally made with diced chicken, dried red chillies, Sichuan peppercorns, and roasted peanuts, all tossed in a glossy sauce that clings to the ingredients without being gloopy. The dish is known for its balance of flavours—spicy, salty, tangy, and slightly sweet—and its signature numbing heat from the Sichuan peppercorns.
The chillies originally used were called ‘facing-heaven chillies’, which are native to China, especially Sichuan. They have a smoky flavour, sharp heat and a slightly fruity taste. Often stir-fried in hot oil to release their flavour before the other ingredients are added. You can use any large dried chillies when cooking this dish. Did you know that Sichuan peppercorns aren’t spicy? They are citrusy and numbing, creating the famous málà sensation (‘ma’ means ‘numbing’ and ‘la’ means spicy).
The Story Behind the Dish
Kung Pao chicken owes its name, and part of its legend, to Ding Baozhen, a respected Qing dynasty official who served as governor of Sichuan. His honorary title was ‘Gong Bao’, meaning ‘Palace Guardian’ or ‘Protector of the Crown Prince’. He became known not only for his reforms, but also for his love of food. According to legend, Ding had a fondness for simple yet flavourful dishes. He asked his chef to prepare something quick and satisfying using diced chicken, peanuts, and chillies. Thus this dish was created and became a favourite in his household. Over time, the dish became a tribute to him and a staple of Sichuan cuisine. Locals began calling it Gōng bǎo jīdīng, literally translated as ‘Palace Guardian diced chicken’.
Reinvented
Over time, the dish has evolved, with prawns becoming a popular alternative ingredient. Prawns have a bouncier texture and a natural sweetness. The stir-fry becomes lighter, quicker, and more delicate. The cooking time is shorter, the sauce clings differently and the mouthfeel changes from hearty to springy.
Recipes
In this month’s column, I'm sharing my go-to Kung Pao chicken recipe with you. If you fancy trying it with prawns instead, that version is on page 86 of 'Lilian’s Kitchen: Home Cooked Food’.
You’ll find the book on my website and at Waterstones if you’d like to have a peek.
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